I did this by making a profiled square key that fits into the normal keaway milled into the spindle. I encorporated a simialr push/pull mechanism to engage one of the two pulleys on the saw shaft (exclusive OR function). I put in a gear reduction box between the motor and drive spindle, then ran two belts to the saw spindle-one from the motor and the other from the gearbox. In fact, I copied the idea in my own modification of my Delta 14" wood cutting band saw to cut metal. My neighbor had a Wilton copy of this saw, and all he had to do was push or pull to engage/disengage the reduction gear box. Also, while the speed changing description is a bit fuzzy, I don't believe it's necessary to engage any other clutch except the push-pull one on the main drive shaft. If you read the manual closely, you will see that it states that both belts may be left on at the same time except for the 115 SFM speed. That's the ticket! I just have no time to take on more projects.īoth belts may not be able to be on at the same time. ubb/images/graemlins/frown.gif"%20alt="Īllen down under put a VFD on his Jet. I just wish the Jet had the gear reduction unit option. My 14" Jet bandsaw is ok, but those Rockwells sure are little work horse machines. I used a piece of allthread fastened to the base, then a washer, spring and wingnut to pull down tension on the motor pivot mount as needed if the belt slipped. Having both shafts turning may be be convenient if you change often between high and low, but double wear if you don't. Besides, you are driving only one or the other. Dual tensions for multiple step pulleys does not work well without an idler. I kept the smaller belt hung on the wall next to the saw.īoth belts may not be able to be on at the same time. Quicker to swing the motor up for speed changes. That was the configuration I liked anyways. The motor should be mounted on a pivoting trunnion which allows the weight of the motor to handle the belt tension. This experience is 15 years past and fading. Double check that there is oil or lube in the gearbox. However I do not know if this is an interlock scheme with the worm shaft. It is turning so slow, it is of no real danger. I don't think disengaging the direct drive pully is all that big a deal without a belt on it.
They tends to smoke a bit and not like it very much. Just don't forget to disengage the lever after returning the belts. It should flip away from the casting and point the opposite direction.This lever moves/couples a worm shaft to transfer the power internally to the lower wheel from the gearbox pulleys. There is a lever on the inside/behind around the lower wheel/rim hub area.